Monday, July 7, 2008

Nama honjozo? Is that even possible?


This weekend I enjoyed a unique sake, the Akitabare "Shunsetsu" Nama Honjozo from Akita prefecture.
Honjozo is a class of sake we rarely see in the US because of the way alcohol is taxed. Honjozo sakes are basically the same quality as junmai sakes, because at least 30 percent of the outer part of the rice is polished away.
The difference is that "junmai" means "pure rice": nothing but rice, water and koji mold goes into a junmai sake.
For honjozos, brewer's alcohol may be added during the process. Usually this is done to create a lighter, less intense, more subdued style. Think about the difference between Italian Pinot Grigio and Alsatian Pinot Gris. The honjozo is more like the Pinot Grigio -- crisp, light-bodied, meant for food, at the sacrifice of some aromatic and flavor intensity. Yet there are plenty of mild dishes in Japanese cuisine that a richly flavored sake would overpower.
Honjozo sakes are very popular in Japan, partly because of their food friendliness, and partly because their easy quaffability makes it easy to drink enough to get shitfaced. Japanese don't drink halfway.
However, while honjozo sakes are generally the same price or cheaper as junmais in Japan, in the US they are more expensive. The US government taxes them at a higher rate because alcohol is added, so they drop into the same category as fortified wines like Port.
That, and the fact that junmai has the better connotation in the US of being "pure," has kept honjozo sakes from making any headway in this market.
This honjozo is an oddity because it's also "nama," which means unpasteurized. It doesn't taste like any other sake I've had.
The aroma is complex, with notes of cream, mustard powder, orange rind, oyster shell, melon and shrimp. But it doesn't prepare you for what you're about to taste.
Neither does the mouthfeel, which is a big plus: it's tight and creamy at the same time, with a taut center and a long taut finish.
What I taste from this is melon, and plenty of it -- the characteristic of a nama, but definitely not a characteristic of most honjozos. I also taste notes of cream and oyster shell. It's a little pungent and never fattens up. That's a good thing -- it's very food-friendly. I had it with Chinese delivery food -- sliced fish sauteed with bok choy, spinach with garlic and vegetable chow mein -- and it was excellent.
This sake is only $22 for a 720 ml bottle at True Sake in San Francisco; it's also available elsewhere. Try it; lots of beverages claim to be unique but this one is legit.

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