Wednesday, July 9, 2008

Drinks for the heat

I can't drink red wine in really hot weather. Eric Asimov recently recommended chilling certain reds, but I just lose my taste for the stuff if the mercury climbs past 90.
What does that leave? Well, a lot.
Start with white wines.
I don't drink Chardonnay in extreme heat for a few reasons. First, while I don't like malolactic fermentation, I do enjoy a dollop of French oak in my Chard. But unoaked wines are crisper and thus better in the heat. Second, I like to drink Chardonnay warmer than other white wines -- maybe 65 degrees, serving temperature for reds -- to release its aromas. Not great on a hot day.
Sauvignon Blanc is probably my favorite summer wine because the acidity sends chills down my spine, just where I want them. You want crisp? That's it.
Italian whites like Falanghina, Greco di Tufo and Vermentino tend to have good acidity and be unoaked; I'll order most Italian whites other than Pinot Grigio without a second thought. (Nothing intrinsically wrong with PG, but it bores me.)
If you've never had a nice chilled glass of bubbly on a hot day, you're missing out. Drink fast, though, bubbly loses its charm pretty quickly when it warms up.
Normally I don't turn my nose up at a little sweetness in Riesling -- German Spatleses are some of my favorite wines. But I just don't want RS in summer. However, the mouthwatering acidity of dry Rieslings from Australia makes them great choices.
I like sake in summer, but not junmais, because like Chardonnay, I drink them warmer than other sakes. Instead, it's a good time to open your remaining bottles of nama ginjos. For one thing, given the nama production cycle, you need to drink those bottles before they lose their charm. Also, they have the right taste profile for hot weather: fruity and generally not overly creamy.
And then there's cocktails. In winter I don't waste my liver-processing units on hard liquor; I'd rather have one more glass of wine. But in July -- a hot day and a drink that involves ice as a key ingredient? It's a no-brainer.
But I mean a real cocktail -- a mojito or something else that involves mixology, not just some untalented bartender simultaneously pouring from two bottles into a glass of ice. Your liver can only process a finite amount of liquor in life. Why waste it?

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